On the coast between Almerimar and Adra, a square stone fort stands over a bay with a much older story than its walls. The Castillo de Guardias Viejas is the best-preserved fort of the Poniente coast, and under it lie the remains of a Roman port.
The castle
The castle is a coastal battery of the eighteenth century, usually dated to 1769, under King Charles III, when Spain rebuilt the defences of its southern coast against pirates and enemy ships. It was designed by the military engineer José Crame, and it has the compact square plan of a small fort, around a central parade ground. It was declared a Bien de Interés Cultural in 1985.
The name, “Guardias Viejas”, means "old guards".
The Roman port
Long before the castle, the bay of Guardias Viejas was a port. Roman authors, Ptolemy and Pliny the Elder, mention a place called Portus Magnus, the "great port", and it is placed here. The archaeology agrees that this was an important harbour: thousands of fragments of amphorae have been found, as well as the tanks where fish was salted to make garum, the Roman fish sauce, and the remains of a workshop that made purple dye from sea snails.
The village around the castle is called Los Baños de Guardias Viejas. The word “baños” refers to the bathing place, the beach, not to ancient Roman baths.
How to visit
- It is a short drive or a bike ride from Almerimar, on the flat coast road.
- The castle has been used for exhibitions and cultural events. Visiting days and hours change, so ask the El Ejido tourism office before you go.
- The best moment is the end of the afternoon, with the low light on the stone and the sea.
Near our routes
The coast is the flat side of Almerimar. If you want to turn it into a short recovery ride, see our easy loops from Almerimar, and for the history of the plain, the guide to Almerimar.
Photos of the castle: MdeVicente (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons. Other photos: Ride Almería.